Used camper checklist

Before you go see it

• Get the VIN and check it matches the titleRed flagAsk for a photo of the title. The name should match the seller, and it should not say salvage or rebuilt.
• Look up open recallsSearch the VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls. Recall repairs are free at a dealer, but you want to know before you buy.
• Ask for maintenance recordsEspecially roof resealing, wheel bearing service, and winterizing. "I don't know" tells you something too.
• Ask why they are selling and where it was storedStored under a roof or cover is a big plus. Sitting outside for years means more chances for leaks.
• Check the price against J.D. Power (NADA) valuesLook up the exact year and model so you know what fair looks like before you get there.
• Pack your inspection kitMoisture meter, flashlight, step ladder, and a phone for photos. A thermal camera helps too.

Water damage (the big one)

Water is what ruins campers. Spend most of your time here.

• Moisture meter around every window, door, vent, and skylightRed flagReadings that jump higher in one spot than the wall around it point to a leak, even when you cannot see anything yet.
• Check the corners, front cap, and rear wall insideRed flagLeaks love the corners. Check high and low, including inside cabinets and behind the bed.
• Look for stains or discoloration on the ceiling and wallsRed flagBrown rings, wavy panels, or fresh paint in one spot are all worth asking about.
• Press on the floor near the door, bathroom, and kitchenRed flagSoft or spongy spots usually mean rot underneath. That is an expensive fix.
• Sniff for a musty smellAir fresheners and open windows before you arrive can be hiding something.
• Open every cabinet and look under the sinksLook for water stains, swollen wood, and drips at the fittings.

Roof and outside

• Inspect the roof sealantRed flagLook at every seam, vent, AC unit, and skylight for cracks, gaps, or peeling. Cracked sealant is a leak waiting to happen.
• Check the sidewalls for delaminationRed flagBubbles, waves, or a hollow sound when you tap mean the wall has separated, usually from water. It is hard and costly to fix.
• Look at the window and door sealsDried out or cracked seals let water in.
• Run the awning out and backCheck the fabric for tears and the arms for bends.
• Check the frame and tongue for rust or damageSurface rust is normal. Flaking, bent, or welded spots are not.
• Test the tongue jack and stabilizer jacksThey should raise and lower smoothly.

Tires, wheels, and brakes

• Read the tire date codesRed flagThe last four digits of the DOT code are the week and year. Many owners replace trailer tires around 5 to 6 years old, even with good tread.
• Look for cracks, bulges, and uneven wearUneven wear can mean an alignment or axle problem.
• Check the spareSame date code check. Plenty of campers come with a spare that is as old as the camper.
• Ask when the wheel bearings were last servicedThey need regular repacking. Ask for a receipt or a date.
• Test the lights and brakes when hitchedRunning lights, brake lights, turn signals, and the electric brakes. Check the breakaway switch too.

Plumbing and tanks

• Hook up water and run every faucetCheck hot and cold, and look underneath for drips while it runs.
• Check that the water heater makes hot waterOn electric and propane, if it has both.
• Flush the toilet and watch the sealIt should hold water in the bowl and not leak at the base.
• Run the water pump off the fresh tankIt should build pressure and then shut off, not keep cycling.
• Open and close the dump valvesThey should move smoothly. Sticky valves are a messy repair.

Electrical, propane, and appliances

• Plug into shore power and test the outletsBring a cheap outlet tester or a phone charger.
• Run the AC for 10 minutesIt should blow cold. Also look for water dripping inside, which can be a drain or leveling issue.
• Check the fridge coolsOn every power source it has. Fridges take time, so start it first.
• Light the stove burners and run the furnaceRed flagThe furnace should light and blow warm air within a few minutes.
• Check the battery and converterAsk how old the battery is, and make sure it charges when plugged in.
• Test the smoke, CO, and propane detectorsRed flagPress the test buttons and check the expiration dates. Most have one.
• Smell for propane and check the tank dateRed flagAny propane smell is a stop. Tanks have a date stamped on the collar and need requalifying after 12 years.

Inside the camper

• Open and close every door, drawer, and latchBroken latches are cheap, but a door that does not line up can mean the frame flexed.
• Check the bunks, beds, and dinette conversionSet them up the way you will actually use them.
• Check the screens and blindsSmall fixes, but they add up.
• Look for pest signsDroppings in cabinets or chewed wires mean mice have been living in it.

Making the deal

• Hitch it up and tow it a short distance if you canListen for clunks and watch for sway. Use our towing calculator first so you know your vehicle can handle it.
• Consider a professional RV inspectionFor a bigger purchase, an independent inspector can find what you missed. It costs a few hundred dollars and can save thousands.
• Use what you found to negotiateOld tires, cracked sealant, and an old battery are real costs. Price them out and ask for that off.
• Get a signed bill of sale and the titleRed flagInclude the VIN, price, date, and both signatures. Do not hand over money without the title.